The plan I am following to learn macro photography from zero: 48 basement sessions over 24 weeks, two a week, about two hours each. Six phases, each built on the one before it: the lens, flash, focus stacking, going past 1:1, motion, then a signature series.
My progress updates as I go, with my best frame and what I learned from each session. Follow along with whatever gear you have. I list mine so you know what each result took. Get the tracker spreadsheet.
Phase 1 / Weeks 1 to 4 / 0 of 8 done
Get comfortable at 1:1 with continuous LED light. Learn depth of field, focus by moving the camera, and how light angle shows texture.
Move on when you can hit sharp focus on a coin at 1:1 nine times out of ten, and explain why f/16 looks softer than f/8.
Phase 2 / Weeks 5 to 8 / 0 of 8 done
Take the TT350S off camera on the X3 Pro S. Learn manual flash power, killing ambient light, diffusion, and two-light setups with the AD100Pro.
Move on when you can light a slot car with one flash so the background goes black, without looking at a guide.
Phase 3 / Weeks 9 to 12 / 0 of 8 done
Use the A7 V focus bracketing and stack the frames in Photoshop. Learn step width, shot counts and cleaning up stack errors.
Move on when you can shoot and stack a whole 1:32 car sharp from nose to tail on the first try.
Phase 4 / Weeks 13 to 16 / 0 of 8 done
Go past life size: the Sony 100mm GM reaches 1.4x on its own and 2.8x with the 2x teleconverter. The teleconverter costs two stops of light and the sharp zone gets tiny, so diffusion, stability and stacking matter more.
Move on when you can get a clean, evenly lit stack of sugar crystals at 2.8x.
Phase 5 / Weeks 17 to 20 / 0 of 8 done
Freeze movement: smoke in the wind tunnel, water drops, splashes and incense. Flash duration does the freezing.
Move on when you can freeze a water drop or smoke line sharp, and get one wind tunnel frame you would print.
Phase 6 / Weeks 21 to 24 / 0 of 8 done
Lock one lighting recipe and shoot a consistent series of slot cars (or any small objects), plus a diorama. Fill the last gaps on the wall.
Move on when you can finish twelve cars or objects to the same recipe and put 100 keepers on the wall.
| Situation | Aperture | Shutter | ISO | Focus | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Single frame, LED light | f/8 to f/11 | 1/125 on a tripod | Auto, cap 1600 | MF, magnifier + peaking | Past about f/11 at 1:1 the image goes soft from diffraction. Your phase 1 aperture test will show you where. |
| Single frame, handheld | f/8 | 1/250 or faster | Auto | MF, rock gently toward the subject | IBIS on. Take bursts and keep the sharpest. |
| One flash, black background | f/8 to f/11 | 1/160 | 100 | MF | At 1/160 the room light disappears and only the flash shows. Set flash power for exposure, start at 1/16. Check the max sync speed of each body; 1/160 is safe on both. |
| Two flashes (TT350S + AD100Pro) | f/8 to f/11 | 1/160 | 100 | MF | Group A key, group B rim on the X3 Pro S. Start with the rim one stop below the key. |
| Focus stack, LED | f/5.6 to f/8 | 1/125 | 100 to 400 | A7 V Focus Bracket: near point first | Step width 3 and 30 shots at 1:1 is a good first try. Wider steps for deeper subjects at lower magnification. Stack in Photoshop: Load files into stack, Auto-Align, Auto-Blend. |
| Focus stack, flash | f/5.6 to f/8 | 1/160 | 100 | Focus Bracket with an interval | Low flash power (1/32 to 1/64) recycles faster. If some frames come out dark, lengthen the interval. |
| Sony 100mm GM up to 1.4x | f/8 to f/11 | 1/125 on a tripod | Auto, cap 1600 | MF at closest focus, move the camera | Main macro lens from session 2. Turn OSS off on a tripod and on for handheld. Use the focus range limiter to stop autofocus hunting at close distances. |
| Sony 100mm GM + 2x teleconverter (2.8x) | f/5.6 to f/8 shown | Depends on light | 400 to 800 on LED | MF at closest focus, move the camera | The camera shows the real aperture after the two stop loss. Diffraction arrives early at 2.8x, so stack instead of stopping down. Working distance stays the same as the bare lens, which leaves room for light. |
| Raynox DCR-250 on the Sigma 105 | f/5.6 to f/8 | Depends on light | 400 to 800 on LED | Lens at closest focus, move the camera | Roughly 1.8x at closest focus (estimate). Now mainly for the session 31 comparison. Working distance is a few centimetres; diffuse the light well. |
| Freezing water or smoke | f/8 to f/11 | 1/160 | 100 to 200 | Pre-focus on the drop point | Lower flash power means a shorter flash and a sharper freeze. 1/64 to 1/128 freezes drops. |
| Wind tunnel, LED only | f/5.6 | 1/250 or faster | 1600 to 3200 | MF on the car | Side light only. Anything lit behind the smoke washes it out. |
| Behind the scenes video | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | FX3 on a second tripod, wide enough to show the camera, lights and subject. FX30 as B-cam: a close side view, or overhead on the boom arm for a top-down angle. Match picture profiles on both. Clip a mic on for Lab Log voice notes. |
| Pixel Shift on the A7R III | f/5.6 to f/8 | 1/125 on a tripod | 100 | MF, then do not touch anything | Four frames shifted by one pixel, combined in Imaging Edge Desktop for more detail and colour. Only for subjects that do not move, under LED light. No in-camera focus bracketing on this body, so stack on the A7 V. |
The spreadsheet I use to run this: every session, a skills scorecard to rate yourself after each phase, a settings cheat sheet and a props list. Leave your email and the download starts right away. I will email you a copy too.
I only use your email to send the tracker, plus a short start-here series and Lab Log updates if you tick the box. You can unsubscribe from any email.